Experiments··12
I Finally Got My Pulse Motor Running Faster with an External Trigger (Starter Solenoid Wire Diagram)
Papa Bale shares live bench results comparing an external trigger coil to bifilar on a small 5.5 inch rotor. Real voltage, wattage, and RPM numbers plus why you can tweak the external coil but not the bifilar.
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Watch the complete video: I Finally Got My Pulse Motor Running Faster with an External Trigger (Starter Solenoid Wire Diagram)
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Hook
I moved the external trigger coil just a hair to the right and the little rotor jumped from sluggish to over 1000 RPM at 25 volts. That’s the starter solenoid wire diagram moment that made me smile.
Watch this experiment
We fire up a 5.5 inch rotor with four magnets on the outside, mag-lev style. One external trigger coil, three drive coils, 25 volts DC. You hear the speed climb the second I nudge the trigger. No fancy scope, just ears and a frequency count that we divide by four to get real RPM.
What you'll learn
You’ll see exactly how much wattage this thing pulls, why the external trigger gives you free timing adjustment the bifilar can’t match, and the honest trade-offs between the two approaches. All numbers straight from the bench, no hype.
From the bench
The rotor is 5.5 inches, not quite six. Four magnets. Stuck on the pole in the right spot so it starts easy. At 25 volts it runs between 2.5 and 5 watts and sounds beautiful once the trigger is placed right. I tried one of the gray coils alone instead of all three and it still hit 1000 RPM but pulled 11.75 watts. That’s a lot more amperage.
I hooked up a supply that can go to 345 volts DC just in case, but we didn’t need anywhere near that. This little guy doesn’t like high voltage to spin; it likes the right trigger position.
How it works / what we changed
This is bare bones. No BMF connections, no meter on the output, no generation load. Just kinetic energy and the external trigger coil. The trigger is completely separate so I can slide it left or right. When I move it a little into the direction of rotation I get a much greater response. That’s the big plus of the external trigger.
hall effect controller
I’m still using the external trigger coil in this test, not a hall effect controller. The hall effect controller video is on the list for later because I want to see if it gives the same easy positioning freedom or if it locks timing like the bifilar does. For now the simple external coil is winning on the bench.
counter rotating magnets
We’re not running counter rotating magnets on this rotor. Everything spins in one direction. I do have a separate counter-rotating device project that needed a safety relay upgrade, but that’s a different build. Here the focus is single-direction spin with the external trigger giving clean acceleration.
papa bale external bifilar
The papa bale external bifilar trigger is strong, no doubt. But you’re stuck with the drive coil and trigger moving together. You can’t slide it independently like I’m doing here. With the external trigger I get the speed increase without needing the same coil count or wattage. The bifilar works, it just can’t match this easy adjustment on the same hardware.
Builder checklist
- 5.5 inch rotor with four properly placed magnets
- External trigger coil mounted so it can be moved by hand
- Three drive coils or test with single shorter coil
- 25 volt DC supply (higher voltage available but not required)
- Mag-lev on the outside for low drag
- Frequency counter or tach to read RPM (divide by 4 for this magnet count)
- Notebook for wattage readings at each trigger position
Troubleshooting
Rotor stuck on the pole? That’s actually the right spot for starting. If it won’t spin, move the external trigger a few millimeters left or right until you hear the clean pickup. If it gets hot at 1000 RPM on the single coil, drop back to the three-coil setup to stay under 5 watts. No reading on the meter? That’s because nothing is connected to generate yet; this test is pure motion.
Safety
Keep fingers clear of the spinning rotor. The magnets are strong. When testing higher voltage supplies (up to 345 V DC) use proper insulation and don’t touch live terminals. Watch for coil heat on the single shorter coil at 11.75 watts. Always use a current-limited supply when first dialing in trigger position.
FAQ
Q: Do I need a starter solenoid wire diagram for this?
A: The external trigger coil works like a simple solenoid pickup. The wiring is straightforward: power to the drive coils through the trigger contacts. Exact diagram changes with your transistor choice but the principle is the same as the Bedini-style circuits I’ve shown before.
Q: How fast does it really go?
A: Raw frequency hits 4100 and we divide by four magnets to get roughly 1025 RPM. That’s with the external trigger nudged into the sweet spot.
Q: Can I use a hall effect controller instead?
A: Yes, but you lose the instant manual positioning I’m showing. The hall effect controller locks the timing to the sensor placement.
Q: Why mention the Utron?
A: Just sharing the other project on the bench. It’s also running with the external coil and mag-lev. Needs a non-magnetic battery on the rotor before I can close the loop.
Related on this site
- How to Build a Pulse Motor (Parts, Coil Placement & Circuit)
- Pulse Motor Rotor Design: Magnets, Materials and Balance
- Using a Hall Effect Sensor in Your Pulse Motor Build
- How to Maximize RPM on Your Pulse Motor
- Counter-Rotating Device: Troubleshooting Resonance & Safety Relay Upgrade
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