I Finally Put a 100 Watt Load on My Hall Effect Controller

Hook

I finally decided to put a load on it. A real one. 120 watt halogen bulb glowing nice and bright off the coil output while the hall effect controller runs the whole show at 75 volts.

Watch this experiment

We start at 31-32 volts on one circuit and 75 volts on the other. The rotor is a four-magnet neodymium cube setup, south facing out, sitting on a toroidal magnet for levitation. You can hear it struggle at low voltage then snap to life when we turn up the “turbo boosters.” The 120W halogen lights up so you know the voltage is really there.

What you'll learn

How a hall effect controller behaves with serious copper in series, what 75 volts does versus 31 volts, why the MOSFET needs a big heatsink, and how magnetic locking in iron-infused PLA helps at higher RPM.

From the bench

The bench is messy as usual. Power supply feeding a high voltage device that steps things up. We’ve got two 90° circuits, two triggers, and a bunch of coils wired in series for the resistance benefit. One coil has the 120 watt halogen attached across its positive and negative ends so we can see the output. There’s also a Bedini-style light on the circuit that’s glowing strong.

How it works / what we changed

This is a Bedini-esque style motor using a hall effect controller. The rotor is four neodymium cubes magnetically locked into iron-infused PLA so they don’t fly out at speed. It levitates on a 4-inch toroidal magnet, north facing up. Coils are a mix: 16 gauge with 26 gauge trigger, trifilar 18-20-32 gauge in series, a solo trigger, and a dual drive coil with two 20 and two 32 gauge strands. Everything hooked in series for this test. At 31 volts the circuit draws only 100 milliamps but the extra weight on the coil slows it down. Crank it to 75 volts and it immediately pulls 3 amps at 9 volts input while pushing 75 volts out to the bulb. The light is brilliant on both the output and the resistance bulb.

pulse motor

The pulse motor here uses multiple tiny coils that add up to serious copper when wired in series. That gives good resistance but isn’t the most efficient. The hall effect controller times the pulses from two triggers set at 90 degrees. You can hear it trying to catch the rotor sometimes before it locks in. Overall it runs better at higher voltage than staying at 12 volts like most people start with.

bedini motor

This is a bedin-esque style motor. The circuit is classic Bedini-inspired with a 120 watt halogen as the Bedini light on the output. Mike from another channel encouraged me to stop being scared of anything above 12 volts and try 75. It works out perfect. The output is strong enough to light the bulb really bright while the input is stepped through the high voltage device.

high voltage pulse motor

We’re doing 75 volts on one circuit. The high voltage device converts whatever comes from the power supply into the desired voltage. At 75 volts the motor behaves completely different than at 31-32 volts. It spins faster, the lights get brilliant, but the MOSFET on the big heatsink starts getting hot. Max on the supply is 345 volts but I’m not going anywhere near that without the right wire.

hall effect sensor pulse motor

The hall effect controller is doing all the switching. Two triggers and coils arranged at 90 degrees. The hall effect sensor picks up the south-facing magnets on the rotor. It’s not perfect; sometimes it misses the little magnet and you hear it hunting before it catches. Still, once it locks in the output is impressive.

pulse motor with 100 watt load

I finally put a load on it. The 120 watt halogen is attached to the positive and negative end of one coil series. That’s our output light and it gets super bright. There’s also a resistance light that’s brilliant. We’re effectively running a 100-watt-plus load while the input is only 9 volts at 3 amps after the conversion. The bulb tells you the voltage is really going through it.

75 volt pulse motor

75 volts is where it gets fun. At 31 volts and 100 milliamps it’s placid and slow because of all the copper and weight. Turn it up to 75 and it’s a whole different ball of wax. Immediate 3 amp draw at 9 volts input, 75 volts out, lights blazing. The rotor spins nicely and the levitation helps. I smelled something burning so I turned it down before the MOSFET got too hot.

pulse motor rotor levitation

The rotor levitates on a 4-inch toroidal magnet, north facing up. The four neodymium cubes are locked into iron-infused PLA so they stay put at higher RPM. That magnetic locking gives a lot more confidence. I thought about adding angled spokes for even more lift but the current setup already levitates cleanly once it’s spinning.

back emf pulse motor

We get good output from the coils, enough to light the 120W bulb bright. That’s basically back EMF being put to work. The series copper helps collect it. We were going to look at the wave on the scope but the MOSFET heat cut the run short. Still, you can see the voltage is there by how brilliant the halogen is.

pulse motor coil winding

All my coils are tiny but together they add up. We have 16 gauge with 26 gauge trigger, trifilar 18-20-32 in series, dual drive with two 20 and two 32 gauge strands. Wired in series for the resistance benefit. The trifilar goes boom-boom-boom in sequence instead of looping. If you don’t have the right gauge you draw too much power and everything gets hot.

Builder checklist

• Four neodymium cube magnets, south out, north in, locked in iron-infused PLA
• 4-inch toroidal magnet for levitation, north up
• Mix of 16ga, 18ga, 20ga, 26ga, 32ga coils all in series
• Hall effect controller with two 90° triggers
• Big heatsink on the MOSFET
• 120W halogen across one coil pair for output
• Variable high voltage device set to 75V output
• Power supply monitoring amps and volts

Troubleshooting

MOSFET on the big heatsink gets hot fast at 75 volts. Smelled burning and had to turn it down. At 31 volts the extra coil weight slows the rotor; might need gluing or redesign. Sometimes the hall effect misses the magnet and it hunts before catching. If you don’t have the right wire gauge you’ll pull too much current and overheat.

Safety

High voltage even at 75 volts can bite. MOSFETs and coils get hot quick. I backed off when I smelled something. Don’t go near the 345 volt max without proper insulation and experience. Watch your fingers around the spinning rotor, especially at higher RPM.

FAQ

Why so many coils? All my coils are tiny. Adding them in series gives decent total copper and resistance without one giant coil.

Is it efficient? Not the best. Multiple side hits on the rotor help but the hall effect sometimes misses and heat builds fast.

Why 75 volts instead of 12? Way better performance. A friend said stop being a wussy about 12 volts and he was right about the improvement.

What’s the input vs output? Roughly 9 volts at 3 amps in, 75 volts out lighting a 120W bulb bright.

Related on this site

• How to Build a Pulse Motor (Parts, Coil Placement & Circuit)
• Bedini Motor & SSG Circuit Guide (Beginner Bedini Explained)
• Using a Hall Effect Sensor in Your Pulse Motor Build
• Pulse Motor Rotor Design: Magnets, Materials and Balance
• How to Wind Coils for a Pulse Motor (Step by Step)

Watch & support the channel

• ▶ Watch on YouTube
• Subscribe free
• Join as member — $2.99/mo — exclusive videos, Discord, live shoutouts