I Hooked Bedini Output Onto the Coil – Here’s What Happened

Hook

I finally tried putting the Bedini output onto the coil to see if it would run better than dumping it straight into the cap bank. Spoiler – it acts just like connecting to the caps and slows everything down. But the free-running speed is wild.

Watch this experiment

I had the big 500 farad bank and the 10 farad one both hooked to the same coil. Power supply charging them up, then I let the wheel spin on the caps only. The Bedini output clip was the key – when it touched the positive of the cap bank the rotor slowed to a crawl. I pulled it off and it shot up to over 1300 RPM on just 7.3 volts. Then I clipped the Bedini output onto the coil itself and it did the same stalling thing.

What you'll learn

You’ll see exactly how the coil draws from multiple cap banks, what the Bedini output does when connected versus floating, and the simple way I kill the spin by lifting both grounds. All facts straight from the bench, no guesswork on volts or parts.

From the bench

The setup had two blue 10 farad caps at 11 volts in the back and a stack of six 2.7V supercaps making roughly 16 volts and 500 farads. Everything ties into the coil. The meter showed the big bank sitting at 9.4 volts after the power supply was cut. At one point amps jumped to 8 while the caps were filling. The little meter died during the test. Light bulb lit up even when the wheel was screaming fast.

How it works / what we changed

I started with the Bedini output clipped to the positive of the cap bank. The wheel leveled out and got slower. Then I unhooked it completely and the speed picked up dramatically. You could hear two completely different levels in the audio. When I clipped it back it stalled and slowly corrected. Removing the emitter grounds from both cap banks is how I stop the run. The power supply only charges – once it’s off the wheel runs purely off the caps except for that brief charging moment.

Running standard bedini

If you're running standard bedini you need a charge battery and a primary battery. That’s the classic setup. In this test I wondered out loud what would happen if I fed the Bedini output into a battery instead of the coil or caps. It might behave more like when the output is completely disconnected and let the wheel stay fast. I never actually tried the battery during this run so I can’t say for sure, but the free-running speed makes me think it could be worth testing.

Bedini output

The Bedini output is that connection with the clip to the blue wire. When it’s hooked to the positive of the cap bank the rotor slows way down. When I left the Bedini output not hooked up to anything the wheel went super fast, easy 1300 RPM at 7.3 volts. Hooking it back on stalled the rotation and it had to correct itself. I think if the positive node from the Bedini output is connected to itself you get that slowing effect. The test showed the output clearly affects how the coil interacts with the caps.

Coil. let do it. let

I said let’s do it and hooked the Bedini output onto the coil instead of the cap bank. I gave it about 30 seconds at around 8.2 volts in the caps. It behaved exactly like when it was connected to the cap bank – it slowed the wheel. I think hooking it to the coil is exactly what needs to be done if you’re going to hook it up at all to itself. The coil is already the common point that everything connects through – power supply, small cap bank, large cap bank all go into the coil and it draws from them respectively.

Builder checklist

• Confirm both cap banks are connected to the coil
• Have a clip ready for the Bedini output
• Measure voltage on the lowest cap bank before cutting power
• Prepare to lift both emitter grounds to stop the motor
• Watch for amp spikes while caps are filling
• Have a light bulb ready to see if it lights at high speed

Troubleshooting

When the wheel slowed to a snail’s pace I simply unhooked the Bedini output and it recovered. If amps spike to 8A while filling caps, check that voltage is still below the lowest cap rating. If the meter dies mid-run just switch to another or read the highest/lowest bank manually. The bounce-back voltage after cutting power was right on par with the cap banks.

Safety

I held the clip myself when I re-connected it so I would feel if it tried to shock me. Voltage was low – around 9-11V on the caps – so nothing dangerous, but always watch for sudden amp jumps. I worried something blew when it hit 8 amps but the voltages stayed in range and the transistor seemed fine.

FAQ

Why does the wheel slow down when the Bedini output is connected?

It seems to load the system and stall the rotor. When left disconnected it runs much faster.

Can I run this without a power supply?

I use the supply only to charge the caps, then disconnect it. The wheel runs on the caps after that.

What voltage were the cap banks at?

Small bank around 11V, large bank showed 9.4V after the run. Power supply was set near 20 but actual cap voltage was lower.

Does the light bulb stay lit at high speed?

Yes, it was lit even when the wheel was going super fast.

Should I connect the Bedini output to a battery instead?

The test didn’t try it but I suspect it might let the wheel keep its high speed unlike connecting to the coil or caps.

Related on this site

• How to Build a Pulse Motor: Parts, Coil Gap, First Spin
• Bedini Motor & SSG Circuit Guide (Beginner Bedini Explained)
• Pulse Motor vs Bedini Motor: What's the Difference?
• Understanding Back EMF in Pulse Motors
• How to Maximize RPM on Your Pulse Motor

Watch this experiment on YouTube

• ▶ Watch full on YouTube